Midi to cv for Jupiter 4

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Midi to cv for Jupiter 4

Postby Chinagraf » Thu May 06, 2010 1:19 pm

Hi, I'm wondering if I can midi up my JP4. On the back it has jack ins for ext clock, vcf control pedal, damper pedal and exp pedal.
Can I get some external box that will control it from a midi signal? I don't want to hack into it preferably.
Thanks.
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Postby Cymatics » Thu May 06, 2010 2:07 pm

The Jupiter 4 Io retrofit should do the job..

http://roland-jupiter.org/viewtopic.php?t=414&start=15

I believe 'No-Fi" who posts here has this kit for his JP4. Maybe he'll chime in. (if its the same No-FI who posts elsewhere :))

EDIT: ah sorry, I just read that you'd rather not hack into it.. From what I can gather it's not too intrusive and generally adds value to the synth, if that is a concern.
Last edited by Cymatics on Thu May 06, 2010 4:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Chinagraf » Thu May 06, 2010 2:27 pm

Cheers Cymatics, that actually looks pretty cool, a lot more functions than I imagined you could have. Maybe I will get the hacksaw out after all....
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Postby no-fi » Thu May 06, 2010 8:27 pm

oooh, I'm famous!!!!
:-)


yeah I put that in mine a few months ago.

keep in mind that if you want CV/gate control of the 4 voices in a JP4 then you need to drill 2 holes (cv and gate) per voice = 8 holes. Then you need to cut the wires from the voice allocation board to the voice cards, to put the jacks (switched) inline... Mine originally had this, and the jacks were really cheapo jaycar ones that crapped out and actually stuffed up the CVs going to my voice cards = really unstable synth that seemed to need recalibration every time I looked at it. also the nature of switched jacks means no mounting them on wood. they need strong thin metal.. so that's 8 holes in the top of your synth...

anyway - the IO mod is just 2 holes all up (wish it was 3!! midi thru is really handy!) that you drill into the wooden back of the synth near the roland nameplate. you need a 13mm (i think?) wood drill bit and it's easy as. The key matrix board clips on top of the voice allocation board with no cutting or wiring anything, but if you want midi pitchbend, filter control etc, then you need to solder wires to a few points around the synth. The memory expander board just replaces the original system microcontroller.

so for the whole thing - you're talking 2 big drill holes, mounting 2 connectors each with 2 self tapping wood screws, and about 4 solder points all up.

recommended! though to be honest I still just play it by hand cause that's what I'm used to doing, and prefer to clock the arp off my drum machine because you can trigger to rhythms that way..



ps, cymatics - you're meant to have your real name in your signature if you want to post here. boss' rules.
Last edited by no-fi on Thu May 06, 2010 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My name is Julian Higginson and I approve of this message.
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Postby Cymatics » Thu May 06, 2010 8:45 pm

no-fi wrote:


ps, cymatics - you're meant to have your real name in your signature if you want to post here. boss' rules.


Fixed :)

I believe I met you in Pete's a year or two ago, you were buying a JV-1080 i think...
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Postby mark rachelle » Thu May 06, 2010 8:53 pm

ahhh my first synth!
bought second hand wayyy back in errr 83'

crickey my wife was only 4
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Postby NYMo » Thu May 06, 2010 10:25 pm

Hi there,

Mark...my wife was 6 !

Cheers
N
Y
M
O
John NYMo Nyman

Not too old to Rock n Roll...not too young to die !
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