Turtlerock Forum

Just wondering if anyone has used/owns an FMR RNC?

If they are as good as I have read, they seem like an unbelievable deal.

Any thoughts?

i had one

pretty good compressor

they sound very similar to amek neve /9098
and the purepath dmcl

but without the class a design of the 9098 compressor

you can't beat voltage in my opinion and this thing runs on a wall wart

i had mine racked with power and balanced with some jensen transformers that i got out of some trident eqs from 301

i wasn't to keen on the result
made it sound sloppier so i sold it
and i don't really miss it

bottom line if you are using prosumer gear this compressor excells
and if you are using top of the line gear its not going to rock your world

Cheers.

I just figure that if I spend $400 on a decent outboard compressor, it leaves me more money to buy a nicer microphone....

ps. I hate wall warts.

Todddddddddd

If (like me) you only have that sort of money to spend, the DIY alternative is the Gyraf stereo compressor based on the SSL4000 desk quad compressor. I've finished one and am close to finishing a more elaborate second, they do sound quite sweet.

Its advantages over the RNC? (1) It has balanced ins and outs, (2) a 30 volt (+/- 15V rails) for the power supply grunt. Downside is you've got to build the thing yourself, but you learn a lot about how VCA compressors work in the process.

Plenty of forum members have built this, so there's help there if you need it.

Definitely interested in learning more about how VCA comps work.

Were do I purchase said compressor from?

You do not purchase it ready made. You build it yourself after sourcing parts. Unless you have a mate do it for you. Although been waiting for mine from my mate since Feb....

Hey Toddd

The starting point is the GYRAF audio DIY pages for the compressor.

http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/ssl/ssl.htm

Also check out the unit's meta-site at GroupDIY

http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=110

Have a good look here first and decide if its something you want to do. Its not hard - in fact I would rate it as an easy project - but like all such things you must want to see it through or you've just wasted your time and money.

Most of the parts can be sourced locally through Dick Smith, Jaycar, Altronics, Farnell etc. The only really tricky bits are-

(1) the PCB - I'm not into etching PCBs myself, so I bought mine from audiokitchen in the UK.

http://www.audiokitchen.co.uk/

(2) The VCA's - buy them from Profusion in the UK, or one lucky forum member wrote to the manufacturer (THAT Corp) and got sent some for free. You need 3.

http://www.profusionplc.com/

(3) The meter - I got mine from the Mouser in the US

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler ... deid=54101

(4) The front panel - you go go to town here or not, depending on your budget. I've tried a number of different options over time - ordering custom cut and labelled panels from the US (pricey but great finish), getting transfer decals printed here (nice provided you can drill holes in a straight line) and hand etching myself (hmmm - no comment).

If any other forum member has a good solution here, please let us all know.

And if anyone is interested in front panel transfers for the Neve-itis Saturator NS1072, let me know.

I am about to complete one myself, i sourced all the internal parts from farnell, RS, and the case from altronics. And a genuine sifam meter complete with 1-20 db compression read out from switches plus in Aus too. Meter was the most expensive bit. Am planning on drilling the front panel myself and then using lazertran for the writing. As like most diy things progress is completely related to how busy life gets, so when i have time i'll finish wiring the power up, drill the front...................

I have heard one of these and it may not be for everyones liking but then again it is a sound/colour/"insert any internet audio catch phrase here"

regards, barney

p.s- will be using dbx chips 2150A chips so would be keen to hear it next to one with THAT chips once i'm done? I was lucky enough not to have to buy these!! :-)

Hi Barney

I know what you mean. I find it best across a final mix, for example, rather than a drum or vox submix. But having said that, I find it does add sparkle and presence, and while some settings are clearly better than others, most of the settings improve the original sound. But it doesn't have a "nice" button (yet :-) ).

i didn't even put a meter on gssl - went for a pirate black box type of look to go with my other clones.

still got a problem with the makeup gain tho. gonna build another one, and measure every darn value BEFORE i build it. hopefully that will isolate the problems with the first unit.

if there is a problem with DIY, it's finding and fixing faults once the unit is built. plan to not have any faults - that's my advice!

incl. case and torroidal psu the first unit cost me about $240. not including my own time and blood. well, not blood. tears.
the second will be cheaper, because i can fit it in the same 2RU case and use the same psu.
but i will use better components this time, instead of the Jaycar home-brand capacitors etc.

might do a trannie in/out instead of the 'stock' electrical balancing . . .

chris.
(mfdu)

Hey Chris P

Thanks for all the info. I'm certainly not keen on etching PCB's so will order one from audio kitchen.

I'll probably be bugging everyone over the next few weeks with questions regarding this project, and any advice is welcome.

Cheers.