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Good Value Monitors???
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Good Value Monitors???
So with the recent discussion of the Mackie HR824s in mind, is there any speakers in the range of $1000-$1500 anyone could recommend?
Opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Opinions would be greatly appreciated.
- Roy
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I like my Fostex PM1's, not that I have a lot of experience with other monitors. When I was looking to buy a pair of monitors I spent a fair bit of time comparing the ones they had in the shop. The Fostex's sounded much better than cheaper and other similarly priced models (I think retail was $1400ish, I paid $1000) They sounded more like others costing twice as much than any of the others in the same price range.
The little KRK's sounded little, the Truths sounded muddy, there were others but none of them stood out for me.
Basically I got the cheapest ones that sounded more like the expensive ones.
The little KRK's sounded little, the Truths sounded muddy, there were others but none of them stood out for me.
Basically I got the cheapest ones that sounded more like the expensive ones.
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Kurt - Valued Contributor

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I would look second hand and see what monitors you can find that were $3-$4k, although you might pay up to $2k for something really nice. Seen a few pairs of Quested go for what I call cheap. It is really a personal thing, depending on how soon you need something. Look at mixmasters/ebay/trading post etc and see what the shops have.
see what shops are local and see if any are nice enough to let you try at your place
see what shops are local and see if any are nice enough to let you try at your place
- davemc
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In that price range i would look at the new Yamaha monitors, the HS80M.
http://www.yamahamusic.com.au/products/ ... series.asp
Like any monitor you have to get to know them.
Also try a pair of B&W 602 speakers at a local hi fi dealer. Keep in mind they are a speaker that does need running in a bit. I have used them for 7 years now and have no probs with them. Steve Albini uses an earlier B&W model. They are a better choice than the smaller Genlecs, KRK,s etc. I use them with an older crown power amp and my mixes translate well, ie i dont get unplesant surprises at the mastering studio, listening to my mixes through the big Duntecs etc.
http://www.yamahamusic.com.au/products/ ... series.asp
Like any monitor you have to get to know them.
Also try a pair of B&W 602 speakers at a local hi fi dealer. Keep in mind they are a speaker that does need running in a bit. I have used them for 7 years now and have no probs with them. Steve Albini uses an earlier B&W model. They are a better choice than the smaller Genlecs, KRK,s etc. I use them with an older crown power amp and my mixes translate well, ie i dont get unplesant surprises at the mastering studio, listening to my mixes through the big Duntecs etc.
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Chris H - Forum Veteran

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I reckon there are a couple of Aussie manufacturers that might be worth checking out if you're up for a pair of passive nearfields.
http://www.noteperfect.com.au/proaudix.html
http://www.orpheusaudio.com.au/?d=products&p=aurora-1-5
http://www.legendspeakers.com.au/products/joey.html
I noticed Duntech also now offer a nearfield 'studio' speaker but I'm guessing the price would be prohibitive.
http://www.duntech.com.au/english/produ ... index.html
I think JLM Audio in Bris are starting to market monitors but again the price is probably above your stated budget.
As mentioned above, second hand might be the way to go.
http://www.noteperfect.com.au/proaudix.html
http://www.orpheusaudio.com.au/?d=products&p=aurora-1-5
http://www.legendspeakers.com.au/products/joey.html
I noticed Duntech also now offer a nearfield 'studio' speaker but I'm guessing the price would be prohibitive.
http://www.duntech.com.au/english/produ ... index.html
I think JLM Audio in Bris are starting to market monitors but again the price is probably above your stated budget.
As mentioned above, second hand might be the way to go.
- Text_Edifice
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Text_Edifice wrote:I think JLM Audio in Bris are starting to market monitors but again the price is probably above your stated budget.
As mentioned above, second hand might be the way to go.
Yeah the JLM BAM1s are great monitors, but you are looking at 2.5K ea
Theres the EMES kolbats (1k), they might be worth checking out.
Also the Adam A7s ($1695), i've wanted to try them also.
- BCains
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If you want a monitor with an 8" woofer (everybody loves bass) then I would make sure to go decent quality active/powered - these generally use 24db/oct active crossovers and are much more likely to be able to cross the (better quality) tweeter low enough for a decent 1.5-2.5k response.
I dont think I'd get a cheap active or passive 8" monitor. The (lesser quality) tweeter just wont be able to handle it properly without distorting. I've heard truths and they just dont do it in the mids because of this. To get decent quality I suspect you'll need to look second hand if you want an 8" - dont be afraid to check out those aussie hifi makers too. I looked at some orpheus stuff before I got my current monitors.
I have passive dynaudio BM6s which are out of your range even second hand I think??? (heard BM6a's too - pretty close to passives). I find them good but with a 6.5" woofer the bass can be a little loose. You cant expect 6.5" woofers to produce great bass but you will get a better 1.5-2.5k response and its easier on the tweet because it can be crossed higher = less distortion. There's always a sub to add if you want bass! or 3-way instead of 2-way.
just my 2cents
Im thinking of making some full range speakers with fostex fe2007e drivers just for fun - @150ea and no crossover or other drivers needed it actually ends up pretty cheap when you already have an amp. If you can make a box and solder a few connections there are plenty of 2-way plans around for Vifa and Peerless drivers.
Peter
I dont think I'd get a cheap active or passive 8" monitor. The (lesser quality) tweeter just wont be able to handle it properly without distorting. I've heard truths and they just dont do it in the mids because of this. To get decent quality I suspect you'll need to look second hand if you want an 8" - dont be afraid to check out those aussie hifi makers too. I looked at some orpheus stuff before I got my current monitors.
I have passive dynaudio BM6s which are out of your range even second hand I think??? (heard BM6a's too - pretty close to passives). I find them good but with a 6.5" woofer the bass can be a little loose. You cant expect 6.5" woofers to produce great bass but you will get a better 1.5-2.5k response and its easier on the tweet because it can be crossed higher = less distortion. There's always a sub to add if you want bass! or 3-way instead of 2-way.
just my 2cents
Im thinking of making some full range speakers with fostex fe2007e drivers just for fun - @150ea and no crossover or other drivers needed it actually ends up pretty cheap when you already have an amp. If you can make a box and solder a few connections there are plenty of 2-way plans around for Vifa and Peerless drivers.
Peter
- PeterR
Can we talk about the mechanics of speakers for a second?
Frequency in sound depends on the distance between the pressure waves - less distance = higher pitch. So the ability to produce bass is first and foremost an issue of the ability of the driver to move back and forward in the appropriate (ie accurate) manner.
Volume depends on amplitude, how much air is moved in each cycle, and that is a reflection of the driver size (as well as the efficiency of the driver - how well it converts signal to air movement).
So bigger speakers actually means louder, rather than more bass. There reason the two are linked (or so I understand) is the question of pressure wave power, which is proportional to both the square of the frequency and the square of the amplitude. The low bass frequency means you need a greater amplitude (= bigger speaker?) to get the power back into the reproduced bass signal.
With me so far? That's as far as conventional wisdom seems to take it.
My first issue is that pressure wave amplitude also depends on speaker throw (the distance it moves back and forth), and that a larger throw can compensate (to a degree) for smaller driver size. Remember that our
Frequency in sound depends on the distance between the pressure waves - less distance = higher pitch. So the ability to produce bass is first and foremost an issue of the ability of the driver to move back and forward in the appropriate (ie accurate) manner.
Volume depends on amplitude, how much air is moved in each cycle, and that is a reflection of the driver size (as well as the efficiency of the driver - how well it converts signal to air movement).
So bigger speakers actually means louder, rather than more bass. There reason the two are linked (or so I understand) is the question of pressure wave power, which is proportional to both the square of the frequency and the square of the amplitude. The low bass frequency means you need a greater amplitude (= bigger speaker?) to get the power back into the reproduced bass signal.
With me so far? That's as far as conventional wisdom seems to take it.
My first issue is that pressure wave amplitude also depends on speaker throw (the distance it moves back and forth), and that a larger throw can compensate (to a degree) for smaller driver size. Remember that our
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chris p - Frequent Contributor

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I agree with everything ChrisP said - but I guess my main point was about cost consideration as Roy is on a budget.
Cheap 8" = can't go as high as better designed 8" before cone breakup and beaming
Cheap 1" = can't go as low as better 1" without distorting and massively reduced power handling
Cheap 6.5" = can't go as low (for same design/materials as 8") but will be able to produce 1.5k-2.5k better and cross with cheap 1" better
Passive Crossovers = generally not as steep as active- increases problem with 8" and 1" drivers outlined above.
And while I completely agree that woofer cone area is definitely not the only factor involved in bass lowness and goodness - a smaller driver producing the same bass as a larger driver will require better design and better materials ie. - expensive. In addition a small woofer that can go low requires stiffer cone, larger gap, great suspension - this compromises the effective usable bandwidth (higher frequency extension) of the driver.
I know these are generalities but thats why the best (subjective I know) line array PA systems are still 4-way and the best full range Hi-Fi/Studio systems are at least 3-way - useable bandwidth before distortion.
I guess my main point for Roy is dont get cheap 8" monitors unless you can hear them and reference them against some thing you know is good (like ChrisP said - you need to know whats good).
In your price range - active or passive 6.5" or good quality second hand active 8" is my pick - as long as you listen to them first. Second hand is your friend. You may sacrifice some bass with the 6.5" but I believe this is a compromise you might have to consider. If you can stretch - Brand new HR824s are only $2000 a pair now because of Mk2 model coming soon. I haven't heard them but others have vouched for them
http://www.awave.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=2025
I wonder how the 8" Truths would sound if someone chucked a Morel MDT-33 tweet in them? They go pretty low with low distortion for a 1".
Peter
Cheap 8" = can't go as high as better designed 8" before cone breakup and beaming
Cheap 1" = can't go as low as better 1" without distorting and massively reduced power handling
Cheap 6.5" = can't go as low (for same design/materials as 8") but will be able to produce 1.5k-2.5k better and cross with cheap 1" better
Passive Crossovers = generally not as steep as active- increases problem with 8" and 1" drivers outlined above.
And while I completely agree that woofer cone area is definitely not the only factor involved in bass lowness and goodness - a smaller driver producing the same bass as a larger driver will require better design and better materials ie. - expensive. In addition a small woofer that can go low requires stiffer cone, larger gap, great suspension - this compromises the effective usable bandwidth (higher frequency extension) of the driver.
I know these are generalities but thats why the best (subjective I know) line array PA systems are still 4-way and the best full range Hi-Fi/Studio systems are at least 3-way - useable bandwidth before distortion.
I guess my main point for Roy is dont get cheap 8" monitors unless you can hear them and reference them against some thing you know is good (like ChrisP said - you need to know whats good).
In your price range - active or passive 6.5" or good quality second hand active 8" is my pick - as long as you listen to them first. Second hand is your friend. You may sacrifice some bass with the 6.5" but I believe this is a compromise you might have to consider. If you can stretch - Brand new HR824s are only $2000 a pair now because of Mk2 model coming soon. I haven't heard them but others have vouched for them
http://www.awave.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=2025
I wonder how the 8" Truths would sound if someone chucked a Morel MDT-33 tweet in them? They go pretty low with low distortion for a 1".
Peter
- PeterR
ADAM A7 stands out after recent listening. First monitor I've ever heard that sounds like all frequencys are in focus everywhere. I use ADAM2.5A's which retail for 5 times as much and out of the box A7 sounded much flatter and in need of no adjustment.
As for Above technical info the ribbon top end pushes air at 4:1 ratio instead of the conventional 1:1. The ADAM bass drivers have fair exertion and are very firm so as to keep up with the super fast ribbons...
Think best thing to do is go listen to as much as you can with tracks you know well. Listen for focal distance of different frequency ranges (closer the better), any compression, stereo field...
Happy listening
As for Above technical info the ribbon top end pushes air at 4:1 ratio instead of the conventional 1:1. The ADAM bass drivers have fair exertion and are very firm so as to keep up with the super fast ribbons...
Think best thing to do is go listen to as much as you can with tracks you know well. Listen for focal distance of different frequency ranges (closer the better), any compression, stereo field...
Happy listening
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hugo - Registered User

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- Location: Melbourne
Well today I ended up buying a pair of Event TR8s. Despite only having them a day I believe I made a very good choice. I had the Event TR8, Yamaha HS80M, and the Tapco S8 all plugged in and switched between them for a while but almost immediately my decision was clear. The detail in these things is really awesome. I love them. Thanks for all your opinions, guys!
- Roy
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- Location: Sydney
[quote="Roy"]Well today I ended up buying a pair of Event TR8s. Despite only having them a day I believe I made a very good choice. I had the Event TR8, Yamaha HS80M, and the Tapco S8 all plugged in and switched between them for a while but almost immediately my decision was clear. The detail in these things is really awesome. I love them. Thanks for all your opinions, guys![/quote]
How much did you pay?
How much did you pay?
- Henry
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